Saturday, March 3, 2012

The Ugandan Life

Now that we’ve been here for over 7 weeks I wanted to write a little bit about Uganda in general and hopefully paint a picture of what it’s like to live here. I’ve been writing things down for the last couple weeks so my thoughts are fairly random, but hopefully all interesting.

- The president of Uganda is Museveni and he’s been in office for 26 years now. He was originally very well-liked, but obviously it isn’t good if anyone is in power for this long. His government is very corrupt and the aid money that flows into Uganda from other countries rarely makes it down to the actual people in need. He has 5 houses, one of which is here in Entebbe, and Uncle Tony says it’s worth $75 million USD. The question we’ve been asking people lately is what happens when Museveni dies, but I don’t think anyone really knows the answer to that.

- Uganda is full of weird smells. Anna tells us that even after 2 years she still isn’t used to it yet. I can’t really pinpoint what all of the smells are, but the most common is the smell of burning trash. There’s a very poor waste removal system here, so people are constantly burning their trash. A few months ago Robert found a reliable garbage company, so for 30,000 shillings ($12.50) a month we get our garbage picked up twice a week. Evan always finds garbage pickup to be amusing because the truck is just a pick-up with cardboard tucked around the edge to make the walls of the bed a little higher. As you can imagine, this is pretty ineffective and there’s always garbage falling out onto the road. I feel like waste removal is something that’s overlooked as a priority in developing countries, but all the litter is detrimental to the environment and it must contaminate the ground water as well.

- Almost every day the power goes out at least once, lasting anywhere from 5 minutes to 5 hours, sometimes more. Depending on who we ask, we’re given a different answer about why this happens. Some people say that it’s a punishment for the parts of the country that didn’t vote for Museveni in last year’s election; some say that the electric company used to import power from neighboring countries to cover all their paying customers in Uganda, but last year they just stopped paying them so we’re short on electricity; and others say that Uganda is actually exporting electricity to neighboring countries to make some extra money, but there isn’t enough to go around so ours gets shut off. Who knows what the truth is, but thankfully we have a generator here at the house. It’s extremely loud, but it helps keep everyone safe and makes life a lot easier.

- Occasionally the water stops working, but this doesn’t happen often. However, a few weeks ago we went 5 days without running water. On day 3 the aunties filled the van with clothes and Tony brought them to do laundry in the lake. The laundry room was overflowing at that point because each kid has 2 sets of clothes that get washed daily (school uniform and play clothes), plus the bed sheets of the 3 or 4 kids that often wet the bed at night. Tony also brought big barrels of water to the house each day, but luckily the running water came back just before everyone hit their breaking point. I take for granted the fact that I can clean my hands, flush the toilet, wash dishes, and shower anytime I want at home.

- Another thing that’s different between here and home is the amount of human contact you have each day. At home when I pay my bills online and use a self-checkout counter at the grocery store. I drive my own car to do all my errands and can print documents at my house. In Uganda almost everything I need is a half mile up the road in the Entebbe Town, and everything else is just another mile further around the state house in Kitoro . We go to town and wait in line to pay our electric, water, and phone bills. We go to town for our groceries and to print any documents or pictures that we need. We talk to the people at each of these stores and say hello to others along the way. When we go somewhere that’s too far to walk, or if it’s dark out, we take a boda boda (motorcycle taxi) or a matatu (taxi van). In both cases you have to talk to the driver and negotiate a price. Negotiating prices is also necessary at markets, whether it’s for food or for African crafts, so there’s much more conversation between customers and merchants.

- The last thing I’ll mention about Uganda is that white people are called ‘mzungus.’ Every day when we’re walking around town, countless children and many adults yell “mzungu mzungu!” at us. At first I didn’t mind and we would always wave to them and smile, but now it’s getting old. I found a shirt at a market in Kampala a couple weeks ago that said “My name is not mzungu… I don’t have any money and I don’t have any chocolate.” I think it sums things up nicely, because most people here think that all white people can we can afford to give them money for school fees or food or candy. I don’t think people are using the term mzungu in a derogatory way, but the kids at Malayaka House never call us mzungus and they often look at other people funny when they do. Recently though, Evan told a couple of our kids that no one calls us mzungu in America and they asked, “then what do they call you?” When we’re walking around town we often think about what would happen if we saw a black person in the U.S. and just pointed and yelled “black person, black person!” Definitely not acceptable at home, but here it’s normal.

So, all things considered, I’m enjoying my life here very much. There are days when I miss home – both Norton and St. Mike’s – but there are things I really love here. I like that I don’t ever think about the weather because it’s always beautiful, with the occasional thunderstorm. I like that I spend the majority of my time outside every day. I’m now ok with the fact that I’m perpetually dirty all the time because of the dust, mud, and outdoor lifestyle. I like that I can walk everywhere, though I do miss driving. And, of course, I’m falling in love with the kids. There are times when we wonder if we’re really helping anyone by being here, and there are days when we feel like we’re not being very productive, but I think that’s the same with any service experience. We can see that we’ve made a positive impact on the businesses and I think we’re teaching the girls some skills along the way. We just added February to our profits chart and each business has a balance far above what we projected. The pizza business is approaching one million shillings (over $400) and the girls hosted a perfect dinner for 19 people last Tuesday. I’ve also realized that we’re helping the young kids just by giving them more individual attention, taking them out around town, and checking their homework each night. I think they enjoy having us here, and we certainly enjoy hanging out with them, so I look forward to seeing how our relationships evolve from here.

1 comment:

  1. Wow Sarah! Thank you so much for posting all of this. Unpredictable presidents, weird smells, power outages and water shortages...sounds like the East Africa I know!

    I can relate to your feelings about being called mzungu. Our friends never call us that and get angry at those who do. I've come to hate that word. I think you're right that it's not meant to be derogatory, but it has inaccurate assumptions tied to it. Recently, people have been reaching out and touching my hair (older men actually) and I often wonder if they see us as not quite human.

    Great thoughts and reflections. Although it may not seem like it now, you and Evan are doing a world of difference just by being there. It took me a long time to realize that. :)

    All my love,

    Elena

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